The 12 Vans of Braj: The Twelve Sacred Forests of Krishna’s Land

When people say “Braj,” they often picture only Mathura and Vrindavan. But the Braj of the scriptures is a land of forests, the twelve vans, each one a green chapter in the life of Krishna. Pilgrims have walked between them for centuries on the 84 kos parikrama, and even a short tour can take in the most important. Here, from a guide born in Braj, is the verified list of all twelve, their significance and how to visit, with the key details in tables. Plan your visit with our Mathura Vrindavan tour package.

Key takeaways

• The 12 vans of Braj are the twelve sacred forests named in the Padma Purana.
• Seven are west of the Yamuna: Madhuvan, Talvan, Kumudvan, Bahulavan, Kamyavan, Khadirvan, Vrindavan.
• Five are east of the Yamuna: Bhadravan, Bhandirvan, Belvan, Lohvan, Mahavan.
• Each forest marks a pastime of Krishna, from the raslila to the lifting of Govardhan nearby.
• Together they anchor the Chaurasi Kos (84 kos) Braj parikrama.
• Tradition also counts twelve upvans (lesser forests) and many smaller groves.
• Most pilgrims visit the key vans by road over two or three days.

I am Gurudutt, born in Gokul in the Mathura district, which is itself in the forest of Mahavan, so the vans of Braj are the ground I grew up on. Let me set out all twelve clearly, with their stories and how to see them, in tables.

The 12 vans of Braj: the full list

Here are all twelve forests, in the traditional order, with the side of the Yamuna and what each is best known for.

The seven western forests

The seven vans west of the Yamuna run from Mathura out towards Rajasthan, and they hold some of the best-loved stories of Braj.

Madhuvan is counted as the first of the forests, near Maholi south of Mathura, remembered both for the ancient demon Madhu and for the boy-sage Dhruva, whose meditation mound, Dhruv Teela, is shown here. Talvan is where Balarama, Krishna’s elder brother, killed the donkey demon Dhenukasura among the palm trees. Kumudvan is a gentler forest of ponds. Bahulavan keeps the tender story of the cow Bahula, who promised to return to a hungry lion after feeding her calf and kept her word, so moving the lion that he let her live. Kamyavan, deep in the Rajasthan side of Braj, is the “wish-fulfilling” forest, thick with kunds and temples. Khadirvan is named for its acacia groves. And Vrindavan, the seventh, needs no introduction: the forest of the raslila, of Banke Bihari and a thousand temples, the beating heart of Braj.

The five eastern forests

The five vans east of the Yamuna cluster around Gokul and the Mant side, the land of Krishna’s infancy and of some of the quietest, oldest groves.

Bhadravan is a peaceful eastern forest of the cowherd pastimes. Bhandirvan holds the astonishing story of the divine marriage, where Brahma himself married Radha and Krishna under the ancient banyan, as told in our guide to Bhandirvan. Belvan, or Bilvavan, is the bilva grove where the goddess Lakshmi is said to have performed austerities, longing to join the rasa dance. Lohvan carries two traditions, the iron demon Lohasura slain by Krishna and the sage Lohajangha who meditated here, which we cover in our guide to Lohvan. And Mahavan, the “great forest,” is the land of Gokul, where the infant Krishna crawled, broke the butter pots and uprooted the twin trees, and where the 84-pillar Nand Bhavan still stands. See our guide to Gokul and Mahavan.

The twelve upvans and the 84 kos of Braj

Beyond the twelve great vans, tradition counts twelve upvans, the lesser forests, with names like Kadambavan, Premvan, Kamodvan and Naradvan. Older texts count many more sacred groves still, so that the whole of Braj Mandal, the four-cornered land of Krishna, is said to hold forty-eight forests in all.

This is the land covered by the famous Chaurasi Kos Parikrama, the 84 kos (about 250 km) circuit of Braj that devout pilgrims walk over several weeks, touching the forests, hills, villages and kunds of Krishna’s whole childhood. You do not have to walk all 84 kos to feel it. Even a well-planned road tour of the key vans, Vrindavan, Mahavan, Bhandirvan, with Govardhan and Barsana nearby, gives you the true shape of Braj.

Takeaway: the twelve vans are not a checklist to race through but a map of Krishna’s life. See a few of them properly rather than all of them in a blur.

How to visit the vans of Braj

Most pilgrims take the classic route by road. The vans are spread across Mathura district and into Rajasthan, on both banks of the Yamuna, so a planned car route saves a great deal of backtracking. Our Gokul and Govardhan combo tour is built around exactly this.

Best time to visit

October to March is the comfortable season across Braj, ideal for moving between the forests and for any walking. The great festivals, Holi in Barsana and Nandgaon, Janmashtami in Mathura and Gokul, Radhashtami in Barsana, and Kartik across the whole region, light up the vans but bring heavy crowds. The Chaurasi Kos parikrama is traditionally undertaken in the cooler months. Avoid the peak summer of April to June, when the open forests give little shade.

The honest bit

Honest words from one born in Braj. Several of the twelve vans are today small villages and quiet groves, not grand temple complexes, and a few, especially on the eastern side and in Rajasthan, are genuinely remote with poor signage and little transport. If you arrive expecting twelve Vrindavans you will be disappointed. If you arrive expecting a living, rural, sacred landscape where the stories are the treasure, you will be moved.

Be realistic about scope, too. You cannot see all twelve vans well in a single day, and try to reduce each to a hurried photo. Pick a route that matches your days, take a guide who knows which groves repay a visit and which can wait, and let Braj unfold slowly. That is how the land has always revealed itself.

Why Experience My India is the right choice

I was born in Gokul, inside the forest of Mahavan, so the vans of Braj are not a list to me but the places of my own childhood. Guiding since 2018, more than 50,000 pilgrims, 4.5 stars on Google, WhatsApp first, 8 AM to 9 PM daily. We plan a route that matches your days and your energy, tell the story of each forest on its own ground, keep elders comfortable, and never pad the trip with groves that will only tire you. One clear fare, and never a charge for free darshan.

Tip from Gurudutt: if you have two or three days, do not chase all twelve vans. Do Vrindavan and Mahavan properly, add Bhandirvan and Govardhan, and touch Barsana and Nandgaon. That gives you both banks of the Yamuna and the whole arc of Krishna’s life, which is the real point of the vans.

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Frequently asked questions

What are the 12 vans of Braj?

The 12 vans of Braj are the twelve sacred forests of Krishna’s land, named in the Padma Purana. Seven lie west of the Yamuna, Madhuvan, Talvan, Kumudvan, Bahulavan, Kamyavan, Khadirvan and Vrindavan, and five lie east, Bhadravan, Bhandirvan, Belvan, Lohvan and Mahavan. Each marks a pastime of Krishna. Experience My India can plan a route through the key vans, call +91-7302265809.

Which are the seven western forests of Braj?

The seven vans west of the Yamuna are Madhuvan, Talvan, Kumudvan, Bahulavan, Kamyavan, Khadirvan and Vrindavan. They run from near Mathura out towards Rajasthan and include Vrindavan, the most famous of all, as well as Kamyavan deep in the Rajasthan side of Braj. Experience My India can build a western-vans route around Vrindavan and Govardhan.

Which are the five eastern forests of Braj?

The five vans east of the Yamuna are Bhadravan, Bhandirvan, Belvan, Lohvan and Mahavan. They cluster around Gokul and the Mant side and hold the stories of Krishna’s infancy, the divine marriage at Bhandirvan, and the great forest of Mahavan where Gokul lies. Experience My India can pair these with the Gokul side in one route.

What is the Chaurasi Kos parikrama?

The Chaurasi Kos parikrama is the 84 kos (about 250 km) circuit of Braj Mandal that pilgrims walk over several weeks, touching the forests, hills, villages and kunds of Krishna’s childhood. It takes in the twelve vans and much more. You do not have to walk it all; a planned road tour of the key vans gives the true shape of Braj. Experience My India can plan either.

Can I visit all 12 vans of Braj in one day?

No, not well. The twelve vans are spread across Mathura district and into Rajasthan, on both banks of the Yamuna, so seeing them all in a day would reduce each to a hurried stop. It is far better to pick a route matching your days, two or three for the key vans, and see them properly. Experience My India plans realistic routes, call +91-7302265809.

What is Mahavan among the vans of Braj?

Mahavan, the “great forest,” is the easternmost of the twelve vans and the land of Gokul, where the infant Krishna spent his earliest years. Here he crawled, stole butter and uprooted the twin Yamalarjuna trees, and the 84-pillar Nand Bhavan still stands. It is one of the most visited eastern vans. Experience My India covers it in its Gokul routes.

When is the best time to visit the vans of Braj?

October to March is the comfortable season, ideal for moving between the forests and for any walking. The festivals of Holi, Janmashtami, Radhashtami and Kartik light up the vans but bring heavy crowds. Avoid the peak summer of April to June, when the open forests give little shade. Experience My India plans visits around the season and the festivals.

Which vans of Braj are easiest to visit?

Vrindavan and Mahavan (Gokul) are the easiest and most visited of the twelve vans, both close to Mathura with good roads and facilities. Bhandirvan and the Barsana and Nandgaon area are the natural next additions. The remoter western vans in Rajasthan and some eastern groves need more planning. Experience My India can match the route to how far you want to go.